One of the benefits of these 3d designs is that they may be enlarged or reduced. Most of the design were intended for OO/Ho or the slightly larger 1:64 scale for model railways, wargaming and other dioramas. Most of them are suitable for FDM printing (the cheaper option) at those sizes or enlarged. Some are capable of being produced at a reduced scale using FDM printers whilst others can be printed using a resin/optical printer. When reduced the finest details may naturally be lost and wall sections may become so thin that they have insufficient strength for printing, in which case the design has to be adapted to print the structure as a solid (windows and rooms filled in). If you can take the time to read this page I hope you will understand not only the options that are available but also the limitations that may affect your choices. Perhaps you will understand why it is not a trivial task to produce a comprehensive price list.

Some suggested scales being:

[and why oh why don't the "G" manufactuers own up and say "G gauge to 1:xx scale", G gauge being well understood at 45 mm]

[here are the millimeter  equivalents of a 6 foot length in common scales    1:87~21mm , 1:76~24mm , 1:64~28mm , 1:48~38mm , 1:43~42.5mm ; 1:32~57mm]

Furthermore if you want some of these building fronts to make up a "low profile" scene then that can probably be arranged, let me know how much front to back depth you want.

I have paid the production copyright fees for most of these models whilst for a few series I can print out as many as I like for personal consumption but I would need to pay an up-front royalty charge (per group) if I am to offer them for sale. Therefore for those sets I need a couple of pre-orders per set if I am to run the risk of the royalty cost.

Prices, and also lead times vary with the size of the item. I would intend to print in the either the "hobby ubiquitous" (standard) PLA type plastic, or (if you can put up with being limited to grey, white, black or red) one of the enhanced "PLA plus" types. Both tend to print reasonably easily but the plus types start to soften at least 10 degrees higher and have a vastly improved impact strength (factor of 4). Indoors with gentle handling you may prefer the much wider colour choice of the standard pla. If an item is to be used in a garden railway, or is subject to any mechanical loading or handling,, then I would recommend the plus grade. If you intend to paint over the model to detail it or provide a UV resistant coating then I would suggest the plus type.

Plus type colours: Grey, White, Black, Bright Red

Standard type colours are wide ranging with several shades of browns, reds, greens, blues, yellows, orange, purple and suchlike in bright and pastel shades. On top of those are some flourescent and luminous filaments should you really desire those. If you are going to place an order that would use up most of a spool then I will do my best to match your colour requests.

As to pricing, this will obviously depend on the item and scale prior to any expensive colours but to give some method of estimation I think that I can produce a 1:32 version of the "wild west store" (illustrated below) for 50 euros prior postage. Because of it's size I will no doubt have to buy in suitable cartons.

Although in larger sizes could also be used with Playmobil, Polly Pocket or even "Sylvanian" the standard PLA style plastic is more brittle than that normally used for injection moulded toys and I would not recommend such items for very young children, parts might detach and become choking hazards.

When mentioning "main components" with the "wargaming" designs you could opt to have the roof component tiles/slates to be for instance grey, but that would mean that any upper section of wall that is part of the roof print, and any chimney or other similar attachment, would have to be the same colour. To put it in another way if you wanted all wall sections to be dark red then the roof is probably going to have to be that red as well. It should be imagined that you will want to paint most of the sections even if only to remove the sheen of the plastic, put some "mortar" colour between bricks or dark lines between planks together with general weathering.

Windows
For the vast majority of printed models "glazing" is not included, the larger window frames are missing the panes and you should obtain some rigid clear plastic material to fix to the inside window frames if you want this. One other thing regarding the "wargaming" type designs is that the smaller window panes are often filled in, particularly those in attic windows and those depicting multiple individual panes. For wargaming that might not be an insurmountable problem, just use your imagination, but for a model railway layout you might want to be able to show that there is an interior light shining through at nighttime. There are three potential solutions to that: firstly I try asking the designer to produce a version with the panes removed (no success yet), secondly you could very carefully cut or drill and file the models to remove the opaque panes, thirdly I can use a "clear/translucent" filament. This last option is not a perfect solution as the layer lines often show leading to a "frosted" translucent rather than fully transparent surface (for example please examine the "printed kit~americana~main street" images). This means that you have to paint the rest of that storey/layer on that model but it is worth considering. I hope that the images on this site give a reasonable illustration as to which windows are pierced through rather than filled.